I have an almost 6 month old Boxer/German Sherpherd puppy..
This dog is a maniac.Litteraly. We tried to give her away many,many times.But nobody seems to want her,people don't come, or we dont find anybody that seems like a good home for her.
There are things she does, that are unacceptable and we just
don't know what to do about it.We cant control her..She sure is strong for a pip-squeek.. She bites the leash when we take her
for a walk..When we pull it off her,she growls.. She jumps on people, bites at our pants, eats the wall,bites our hands..etc.etc.etc.. We cannot leave her alone in the kitchen with the child gate for too long, or else she will destruct anything in her site.. She scratches us when she jumps on us.. We throw her
down in attempt to control her,and put our hands on her face and said NOO in a firm voice..she stops,but then gets up and does it again.
I know this is normal boxer behavior, but somebody gotta help me please.This little girl is crazy..
Answers:
Try giving her to the police.NOT TO JAIL!!(unless she is that bad!)She could a police dog.Or maybe the police can beat her if she is naughty(hey!maybe you can too!).
Every year, millions of dogs are surrendered to the pounds and humane societies because they are believed to be "untrainable". Their "bad behaviour" includes chewing furniture and shoes, barking too much and ignoring commands - all problems that are not permanent and easily corrected if you take the time to do so.
As difficult as it may be to remember, your dog is not a little person. You cannot reason with a dog to get him to behave the way you would like. Even though they have shared our homes for thousands of years, dogs still retain many of the instincts and characteristics of the wild dogs from whom they are descended. Bred from ancestral wolves, dogs are both pack and den animals and for this reason, most dogs will accept a crate as part of their lifestyle. Like a baby's playpen, a crate or cage is a place in which your dog can stay when you are unable to keep an eye on him.
Choosing a Crate
A crate is a dog's very own special place. When you choose a crate, be sure to select the correct size for your dog. The crate must be large enough for the adult dog to stand up straight, turn around and lie down in a stretched position. Crates usually come in two varieties: fiberglass and metal. A fiberglass crate will provide a greater sense of security for your dog; a metal crate is collapsible and will allow for better circulation.
Introducing Your Dog to the Crate
For crate training to be most successful, your dog must be properly introduced to the crate. Crate training should begin as soon as you bring your new dog home. Equip the crate with water and a blanket or towel. Start off slowly and increase the time gradually. Place the crate out of the way, but not away from the action: your dog is one of the family, and needs to feel he is not being banished when confined in the crate.
Introducing your dog to the crate should be positive and fun. Never place your dog in the crate after disciplining him. Your dog needs to feel the crate is a happy, secure place. Select a command such as "Into your house". Encourage your dog to enter by tossing a treat into the crate. Leave the door open at first. Once your dog enters readily, close the door for a few minutes, and praise him with a cheerful, positive voice. Leave your dog with a special chew toy, just for the times he is in the crate.
Scheduling is very important. Ideally, young puppies would not be crated for more than three hours at a time - they cannot be expected to hold their bladders for more than a couple of hours. Adult dogs should not be crated for much more than eight hours. If you must leave your puppy or dog for longer than the ideal length of time, be sure the crate is arranged to provide a bedding area and a papered area to accommodate "accidents". If your dog needs to use the papers in the crate, under no circumstances should you scold or punish him.
Any complaining your dog may do at the beginning is not usually caused by the crate, but by the new controls set by this unfamiliar environment. Do not let your dog out when he whines or complains. By doing so, you will only reward his bad behaviour. When your dog settles down for five minutes, release him from the crate.
Once you feel your dog can be left on his own, you may practice leaving him alone for short periods of time. Allow your dog access to only certain areas of your home. As with children, place breakables and dangerous items well out of reach!
Your dog's crate is a tool that should allow you to have a smoother, happier relationship with your dog. It is not intended as a place to leave your dog and ignore him.
While crate training is a very effective method of training your dog, it may not be the answer to every behaviour problem your dog might exhibit. If your dog seems to be taking a long time to come around, do not give up! Your dog can be trained to be a fastidious member of your household regardless of age. Just be sure to give your dog every chance to do the right thing, at the right time, in the right place, and let your dog know you love him for him!
The Golden Rules of Crate Training:
The crate belongs to your dog. It should be off-limits to children.
You are the "pack leader", and you are in charge. Your dog needs to learn this!
Never let your dog out when he is whining. Giving in will make it more difficult to train him.
Remember, you are doing your dog a favour by keeping him safe and out of trouble when you are unable to supervise him.
Your dog's crate is not intended for long hours of use. When you are at home, your dog needs to be out of his "house" and in your company.
Never use the crate as a means of punishment.
A puppy is like a baby. He will relieve himself anywhere, anytime. Because a newly adopted adult dog is unfamiliar with your home, he may not understand where he should "go"! Housetraining, or teaching your dog to go outside to relieve himself, is an important lesson your dog must learn.
It is up to you, the new parent, to housetrain your new puppy or dog with patience, love and understanding.
CRATE TRAINING
In the wild, wolves live in a den or cave. It is important the entire wolf pack keep this area clean. The same idea works with your family pet. Your dog’s crate is his home, his bedroom. It is likely that your dog will not like to soil his bed. Therefore, he will wait until he is let out to do his business.
HOUSETRAINING WITH YOUR CRATE
On average, puppies can hold their bladders one hour for every month they have been alive, plus one hour. For example, if you have a three month old puppy, he can wait 3 + 1 = 4 hours. If you work longer than this, the best solution is to have someone (a neighbour, a relative, a dog walker) come in at an appropriate time to let your dog out.
100 PER CENT SUPERVISION
Supervision is the key to housetraining! While you are at home, your dog must be supervised. Whether you are watching television, making dinner, on the phone or on the computer, your puppy must be watched. While it sounds like an impossible task, it isn’t. Keeping the crate in a social part of the house makes it easier. Using a house lead – a small, thin lead with a little clip on it – also helps immensely. Outside, you put a lead on your dog so you can control him. If the lead is removed after returning home, control is lost. For example, when watching television, have the lead tied to a couch leg. Your dog can have his blanket and toys with him. He’ll feel safe and comfortable. The majority of accidents happen when your pup wanders off and you haven’t noticed. You don’t want him to sneak off into the kitchen and find a puddle a short time later. If your pup is kept from wandering, the possibility of an accident is diminished because he will not eliminate where he is sitting. 100 per cent supervision means ensuring your dog is playing with you, in his crate, outside or on his house lead.
SCHEDULING
In the morning, take your dog outside. He should urinate and possibly have a bowel movement. Spend about five to seven minutes with him and then bring him in. Do not play with him yet. Feed him breakfast, either in the crate or with the lead, and supervise it. If your pup did not have a bowel movement earlier, take him back outside about 15 minutes after he has eaten. Use the lead to keep your pup moving along while outside. Otherwise, he may start sniffing, stopping and playing to avoid the job at hand. You can say “hurry up” and your dog will begin to associate these words with the task at hand. Praise him excessively when he has eliminated. Bring him back in the house and place him in his crate if you are going to work. Continue to supervise him with the crate or the lead if you are home. When returning after being out, go directly to the crate, let him out, praise him and put him back in. Feed him his meal, take him outside 15 minutes after he has eaten, praise him after he eliminates, and bring him back in. Continue to follow the same steps consistently.
While you are home, you should take your pup outside on a regular basis. Even if your pup is in a crate or on a house lead, he still needs the opportunity to eliminate. Also, be careful what you wish for! A pup who barks to go outside may be cute and clever now. However, you must try not to fall into the habit of leaping up every time your dog wants in or out. It is a very submissive gesture on your part. Have your pup wait a moment or two.
Setting up a schedule is also a good idea. If your pup is under four months of age, take him out for five minutes every hour on the hour. If your pup is over four months old, take him out every second hour on the hour. The schedule will help you remember when to take him out. Go out for five minutes only. It provides the opportunity to eliminate even if your pup may not need to go. Take your dog out after active play and also after napping. If an accident occurs, you may have forgotten to take him out .
FEEDING TIME
Having a puppy drink a lot of water and then placing him in his crate is much more unkind than letting him be a bit thirsty for an hour or two. Adult dogs should have access to drinking water at all times. However, this is not the case for untrained pups. Most parents will not allow their children to drink a big glass of water before going to bed. Avoid setting your pup up for failure. Restrict his water intake to three or four drinks daily and make sure you remove the water dish about three hours before bedtime. This will help your dog sleep more comfortably.
If it is a hot evening, supply your pup with a few ice cubes. They will enter your dog’s system at a slower pace. When feeding your pup, provide a high-quality food that is a good source of protein. The food must be concentrated so your puppy’s body doesn’t require much of it. If you feed less, your puppy eliminates less. Food is directly related to how well puppies do in their housetraining.
EXERCISE
It is important that your pup gets a lot of exercise, especially while crate training. You can play fetch, chase or hide and seek in your home. You can call ‘come’ at the same time to provide further training. Anyway you do it, your pup needs to be able to run and play.
She has two extremely hyper breeds in her. Giving her away won't solve either of your problems though. You should really check into a breed before you purchase it and then later on decide that you don't want it. The animal then ends up at a kill shelter, or it gets adopted to someone else who just mistreats it. Having a puppy is a long commitment, sometimes as long as 15 years. There are many puppy training books that you can get to home-train your puppy. You can also take it to classes at petsmart. They're inexpensive and usually work wonders on your puppy. You have to be very persistant with a puppy, especially a boxer. I own two of them myself. They aren't exactly the smartest breed around. They can be quite ditzy. Be constant with her. When you put your hand on her face and say NO stearnly and she does it again, do it again, and again, and again until she stops doing it. Then if five minutes later she does it again, do it again until she stops. She will eventually get it, but it's going to take a lot of work on your part.
But if you don't have this kind of time to devote to her, find a good no-kill shelter to give her to, or find a loving family to give her to that will get her some training classes.
No - she is not crazy.
I do suggest you stop watching that nitwit on TV who throws dogs on their backs and claims they are trained if that is where the moves came from.
She is a puppy who has no leader in her pack - and trust, me dumping her down did not prove anything to her execpt you were wrestling and playing like another dog - it was the voice (or lack thereof) and the touching instead of slapping or pinching that gave her the idea it is a game..
She bites the leash: yes, she is playing tug - a favorite boxer game and the growling is playing
She jumps on people - easily stopped
She bites at your hands and pants etc - yes, she is PLAYING - that is how dogs play with each other (I'll past an excerpt from what I give clients below)
Destroy everything if bored - yes that is what puppies do.
A "firm" voice is not a ROAR or a deep authoritarian voice. Throwing her on the floor is not pinning her flat. Putting your hands on her face is not slapping her nose or pinching her ear - actually it is an invitation to keep up the game!
Now everything I am going to spell out below is VERY dependent upon your body language, voice tone and depth, facial expressions and how assured and assertive you are. I weigh 98 lbs and can out Alpha dogs that have me by 50, 60 or more lbs. I ALWAYS win.
(1) GO BUY A CRATE! That is where she goes when she has to be left alone. If you are gone more than 8 hours, get her a waterer that hooks to the crate that she can't destroy. Give her a toy and a chewie. If she is crated, she can't destroy things.
(2) Get a REAL collar on her. Get a 6 ft leash. Go get her a slip/choke collar that will fit so it has about 4-5 fingers of space between her neck and the collar. Put it on so that when the ring that slides is coming over the back of her neck, it is coming straight at you and not bending back towards you. (She will be on your left.) If you have been using a flat colllar - you are toast - you can't hold her.
Learn to use the collar. Do NOT just ratchet it up and keep pulling. It is a snap - not a pull. Pop -release. Try it on your own wrist first.
(Now when she hits 9-10 months you may need to go to a pinch collar but only if after all efforts, the slip is not getting through to her. Use that pinch carefully - they are VERY SEVERE)
(2) Learn to use your voice. 'Firm' and normal voice depth doesn't feed the bulldog. Try for Marine drill sgt in tone and volume. These guarding/herd guarding breeds can be oblivious to anything less when they get wound up.
(3) When she grabs the leash and won't release it, roar NO. swing your left leg and body into her in a sideways move; and bring your fist up under her jaw with one hand for a smack not a punch; and put the other hand over and across her muzzle and squeeze the skin into her teeth - she'll let go. Grab her by the collar or the back of her neck and SCOLD. Make her look at you - a dog that isn't looking at you, isn't listening - and this is an "always" when giving her a command or correction.
IF THE DOG DECIDES TO DIVIDE IN TOWARDS YOU OR AT THE LEASH
The dog is to be on your left not more than 8-10 inches out from you with its shoulder/neck junction even with your leg. That leash is to come off the collar, make that 6 -10 inches on each side loop between the dog and your left hand with the end being held in your right hand. (This is the normal position.)
Now when a dog decides to try to spin in at your hands or at the leash, MOVE - you spin towards the left and MOVE right into the dog. Let it smack right into your knee, leg and body as you go in that direction. Roar NO! as you do it and snap the leash/collar.
If he still tries to grab at your hands and nip, fair is fair. Do exactly what another dog would do which is the smacking into him and shoving with its body, growling (the NO) and if the pusher/nipper hasn't gotten the message, then the pushed/nipped dog will nip the other dog by grabbing their neck or side of their face and pinching with their teeth without breaking the skin. Now you are not going to bite your dog but you are going to make an additional dominant move -as would another dog. When the dog goes for your hands, you give the dog your hand - to be precise, a slap of your fingers right on the nose with the loud NO - make your face look angry and lean your upper body into the dog as you do it.
The minute he backs off , you say "okay - now settle down, that's my good girl". Then as you go along, make sure to give lots of praise and pets. A boxer is a big dog - one that I can easily reach the top of their head when they are next to me so try giving finger strokes on their head as you walk if they are being good.
JUMPING:
Stop jumping by any of these methods:
(1) A loud “No” and push her off and hold her down and scold her with “Bad, Bad Bad”. Then tell her “Okay,” let her up and give her a pat (if she doesn’t leap again.)
(2) A loud “No” and time it so that as she comes off the ground, you bring your foot forward and step on her back foot.
(3) A loud “No” and as she comes up off the ground, raise your knee so that she hits it with her chest and bounces off.
(4) If visitors are coming, put on her leash and collar. she leaps, you roar NO as you pop that leash and haul her backwards. Put her down on her belly and get after her.
PLAY BITING AND NIPPING
You will hear some bizarre theories – and they don’t work in the long run.
Spraying stuff on your hands ..uhhuh..well.and how long do you keep up smelling repulsive? Distract him?? for how many years?? Ignore him..what he is supposed to figure out that you are ignoring him because you are displeased with him and not because you are cleaning the house? Spray doggy with a water bottle??.. and you carry it in your back pocket for how long?
I've gone out on lot of housecalls to stop the nipping chewing behavior of dogs nearly a year old because their owners did the 'distract them' or 'push them away' or 'just hold their mouth' shut nonsense. After doing all this futile and ineffective things, the dogs didn't quit (thought the people were playing with them) and the owners where pinched and black and blue.
It is NOT teething that makes him grab people and nip and chew - he is PLAYING
Puppies bite - that is how dogs and puppies play with each other. He thinks he is playing with you by mock fighting. Its a dog's favorite game - watch two good dog buddies ripping tearing rolling - and diving at each other and grabbing without puncturing. and chewing on each other.
You have to DO something about it.
Now what is really really neat is your puppy came pre-programmed to understand certain behavior as disapproval and approval. In dog language, behavior is communication.
In a group of dogs, if he nipped the leader and the leader was not amused, they would knock him over, grab the skin on his neck or the side of his face and pinch it without breaking the skin, and growl.
So do what they would do. That is something a dog understands instinctively. Lot of theories out there about yelping in pain and pushing him away (duh.that is what the dog who LOST the mock fight does and the winner is the boss now) or all this other stuff - but your puppy didn't read those books!
Step One: Learn to use your voice. Most people either let their voice slide up in register or they sound futile and weak. You want to deepen your voice and sound like a drill sergeant. The word NO is basic to doggy manners (and people too.). The deep sound mimics the rumble/growl of the top dog.
Step Two: Do what the leader would does physically (well, mimic it - biting him wouldn't be fun.)
When he nips at you, roar NO in a deep voice, grab him by the collar or back of the neck, push him down and hold him on the ground and as you are doing that and snap your fingers on the end of his nose or slap his nose with your fingers. While you pin him down and get his nose, lean over him and keep saying BAD BAD BAD - do NOT let your voice slide up, make it deep. Make him look at you and keep eye contact – make your face stern and frown as you get after him.,
Step Three: when you let him up, you relax your voice and face and say "okay, now be nice" and let him come back over and get petted. (That is the postive part.) The more he settles down and gets petted without nipping, the happier your voice gets.
Get after him about EVERY SINGLE TIME - you must be 100% consistent.
Now when he comes over and snuggles and licks and doesn't nip, he always gets "What a sweetie", rub, pet, cuddle, and use a smile (they do watch your face – more than most people realize). And guess what? That is exactly how dogs express approval of each other!
By the way, many women in particular, but men do it too, have a real problem with voice control, When they get upset or frustrated, their voice go UP. The dog ignores them. In the pack, the boss dog or alpha uses deep tones (rumble in the chest, growl etc) to express displeasure and get compliance from the dogs lower in the pecking order. A dog making a high pitched sound (yapping, yelping - etc) is not only NOT going to get compliance with their wishes as they are percieved as ineffectual and the not-Alpha, not-the-boss but that it is giving an invitation to play.
______________
When you are having to do the slap on the nose or other corrections of that type and they DO NOT WORK after repeated tries, a never fail method of getting through to the dog is to grab the ear and pinch it between you fingernails (feels like a tight earring) just the way the Alpha dog would. Both GDSs and Boxers are pretty pain-impervious so you may have to go to this (and that is about as last ditch as it gets.)
Praise when she is being good or trying to be good is voice (happy and warm), pets hugs and tummy rubs. DO NOT GET CAUGHT UP IN THAT FOOD THING. It only works if you don't mind walking around smelling like a doggy deli with food in your pockets for the dog's entire life.
Now you both need a GOOD obedience class - and that is NOT Petsmart or Petco.
GO here to find contacts in you area that can help you locate and obedience trainer who works with all beeds and who does AKC obedience competitions competing at what they calim they teach. If they don't go out and prove they can successfully train by competing, find someone else.:
http://www.akc.org/clubs/search/index.cf.
http://www.akc.org/clubs/search/index.cf. (set on all breeds)
http://www.akc.org/clubs/search/index.cf.
Even it they are an hour or more away, they will know other people all over the state
If all else fails, try contacting the breed rescue for both breeds
Go here and scroll down the list:
;http://www.akc.org/breeds/rescue.cfm.
this is all about control, of which you have none
there is lots of good advice here but you need to take this dog and yourself to obedience class and quick
You seem to know ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about dogs!!
Ever heard about *TRAINING*?
Your wussy attempts are useless! Because you've shown NO consistancy OR FIRMNESS,it assumes you're weak %26 just playing!
Put a choke chain on it(properly sized *%26* put- on!) %26 POP the poor thing!
Your right it is normal boxer behaviour but increased. all that you have said are sign's of your dog being bored. i have a 10 month old bower **.she is alot of hard work i find that when were out if she starts biting her lead,i stop look at her and tell her to stop and sit down.when she does i give her a treat for doing it.so you a rewarding her for doing what she's told insread of telling off for the bad behaviour.you can get toys such a "kongs" which are hard rubber,if you cover the inside of it with marmite of syrup then stuff with food and put in the frides for an hour or so it will keep your dog busy for hours while it tries to get all the food out. you have to do things to stimulate the dog when its on its own otherwise it will stimulate itself. hope this is some help
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